Cylinder head cracking can result in catastrophic damage to the engine. In some cases, cylinder head cracking may be so severe that replacing the. Cylinder head cracking has become more common as car manufacturers use mixed metals. May 22, 2014 - The cylinder head gasket seals both the cylinder head which. Part of the engine which houses most of the moving parts that use the oil and if.

It doesn't look like cylinder 4 has been having such a great time lately. Coolant has clearly been getting in, and has 'crystalised' inside the cylinder. It's not very clear in the picture, but there's a big 'blob' of coolant sitting on top of the exhaust valve (as well as the little 'poofs' of it which are clearly visible). Cylinder 4 is shiny, whilst the rest of them are lined with carbon. Every combustion chamber is cracked, and there are cracks between the intake and exhaust valves as well. There is evidence of the coolant in the exhaust manifold as well, suprisingly mostly from chamber 3.

The exhaust manifold on cylinder 3 is missing quite a large piece of it's mating surface. The turbo has a big crack on the exhaust side. The intake manifold is full of oil and gunk. Hi Tumelo Yip, AMC is definitely the way to go. Prices from Gemini Parts: Bare - R5,500 excl.

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VAT Complete - R8,500 excl. VAT Everywhere else I've checked is more expensive. Victor Reinz gasket kit - R788.60 excl.

VAT Cylinder-Head Bolts - R285 excl. VAT Not sure what else we're still going to need. Trying to decide between bare or complete head.

Not sure about how to get the valves out of the old head, and concerned about it possibly being a lot of work to get the shims right. I suppose we could try HeadZone for the build-over, but it may still be worthwhile to just get the complete new head. Werner, thanks. I have some family helping out with good advice. Hi Dane Those pictures would maybe suggest that the engine is broken, I wouldn't drive it if I were you:-/ My (current) theory on why these engines crack heads is quite simple: Uneven heat distribution. The 'back' of the head (cylinder 4 side) is getting hotter than the front, in one or more modes of engine operation (idle, revving, thermostat open, thermostat closed).

The thermostat only regulates the 'average' temperature of the head. So whilst it may be keeping the average temperature at 82°C, the front may be (as an example) 72°C and the back 92°C (or worse). Or the front could well be being kept at 82°C and the back is just getting hotter because it's not really getting any coolant circulation at all.

From what I've read, the heads on all these engines crack at the rear (cylinders 4 or 3). It's obvious from the head-gasket that some effort has been made to direct coolant flow towards the rear of the head, by blanking off the coolant flow at the front and then having increasingly larger holes towards the back. The pump and coolant outlet holes from the head are all at the front, so this would encourage coolant flow around the front of the head. For anyone else wondering if their 1KZ-TE head is cracked, here are the symptoms we were having: - Difficulty starting.

[Edit: Still having some difficulty starting, even after the cylinder-head replacement. Probably down to fuel-pump / injectors.] - Big white puff/cloud of smoke at startup. [Edit: Still getting a bit of a puff of smoke at cold start (see above).] - Coolant loss (out overflow bottle presumably, some through the engine as well). Only recently did this become bad enough that the vehicle would start overheating after around 400km of driving, due to the excessive coolant loss.

- Rough idle after startup (only started happening recently). - Pressure test revealed communication between the combustion chambers and cooling system. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil (communication seems to be between exhaust outlet and cooling system). In case anybody is wondering, I'm one of those guys that bought a vehicle after the previous owner was 'clever' enough to 'quickly get rid of it' when they realised that there were head problems (without saying anything to me about it of course). The vehicle didn't have as much power as I remembered these engines having when I drove one quite a while back. I initially suspected head trouble due to coolant loss, but some guys at a radiator place managed to convince me that there was nothing wrong with the vehicle, so we drove it like that for a while still until the coolant loss became severe enough to cause the temperature gauge to begin moving. Quick tip for any other DIYers tackling this sort of job for the first time: The stud bolts on the cylinder head are really easy to remove (probably only finger tightened at original manufacture).

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